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Anyone who has an orchard or garden knows how frustrating it is to work day in and day out only to find that deer have eaten your lettuce, trampled your tomatoes, pulled up turnips and carrots, ruined your flower beds, ripped the leaves off your young apple trees, or eaten the fruits right off the trees.
And anyone who has put up deer fencing knows how expensive that can be. Creating a 10-foot wire deer fence is just not practical for many people, so here’s how to build a cheap but effective deer fence.
The higher the fence, the better results you will have.
This final post will act as the gate. Put the final post either in or out of the pipe when you need to close or open the gate.
To hold the top two posts together, just take some type of “O” ring that would fit over the two posts or use some type of latch to hold them in place.
Once your fencing is done and a deer comes around in the daytime or the middle of the night, the deer cannot see the clear 30-pound test line. When they brush up against it, they can feel it and know the something is there, yet they can’t see it. The deer has no idea how high it needs to jump to get over the obstacle it has just walked into and they will stay away from the area.
It’s important to use only 30-pound test line. Anything lower than that and the deer have a tendency to break the line when they brush up or lean against it. Anything over 30-pound line, they can see. This is also why you don’t want to use any colored or braided line; it’s easier for the deer to see it.
Another very important tip: Do not put any warning flags or signs on the line. This will only tell the deer how high they would need to jump to get over the fence.
When you’re done, the fence should look as though there are posts with nothing between them. You should hardly be able to see the line tied to the posts, if at all.
This article was originally published on the Seed Savers Exchange blog on March 15, 2016.
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